Native American Jewelry

Since ancient times, Native Americans have made and worn jewelry, sometimes as personal adornment, sometimes as part of elaborate ceremonial dress. In fact, jewelry was so important that materials were traded over networks that ranged for thousands of miles, even though there were no roads or horses. New Mexico was at the heart of this trade because of its turquoise mines in the area around what is now the town of Cerrillos. The brilliant blue stone was highly prized and was usually made into beads that were drilled and strung together into jewelry.

Today, there are several styles of Native American jewelry in the Southwest. For example, Santo Domingo artists still make traditional jewelry from beads. These are sometimes made from rolling thin layers of stone or shell together into heishi. Materials now may come from all over the world and include gemstones, coral, and shells.

The Navajo, now known by their ancestral name, Dine, are relative newcomers to the Southwest, having migrated in the 15th or early 16th century. Their silversmithing tradition began in the 1850s and they readily adapted both Pueblo and Spanish motifs to their own designs. They are known for intricate stamp work on silver and their use of turquoise in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and belts.

Zuni and Hopi Pueblo jewelers have established their own styles. The Zunis are known for intricate stone inlay and needlepoint designs. They are masters of both. Hopi artists use an overlay technique that produces contrasting black and silver pieces. Just as modern materials have come into use, so have modern designs. Contemporary artisans bring their own interpretations to this traditional art form.